Last Thursday we went into town and as I was taking the car with me for the weekend, parking was not a problem. Unfortunately, the place weere we parked for 20 years or so has now become paying and not just any amount. Obviously the XIVth district is trying to solve its own financial problems by fleecing motorists, which we, as a matter of principle, object to.
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| Muggins under a very large plane tree |
We were actually expecting the loss, but not this way. The government had been threatening to dig our car park up and build a theatre, a museum and many other buildings on it, but due to protests or their own lack of finance for the project, that is yet to happen. However, the appearance of parking meters was a bit of a shock. Especially that it is well over a quid an hour to park there now 24/7. Day and night and including the weekends, it would cost a fortune to leave the car there for any length of time.
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| A glorious weeping willow at the start of a nature trail |
So, Marianne and I have left for our geocaching in the South at 7am on Friday and journeyed along our prepared route. The weather, even though rain was forecast, was comfortable and dry. We started with a very large tree, which was by a sandy lane about 2km from the nearest tarmac, but after such a dry summer, it was perfectly driveable.
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| One of the better condition manor houses we saw |
The next few were related to the flora of the Great Plain, that we were crossing, so we saw a few small hills, memorials to a variety of people, causes etc. on them, then a strange place where it used to be swampy with reeds, but no longer and one in a small town, which was actually quite nice.
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| The windmill |
We also saw a small chateau, which was the first of many in the coming days - some nicely renovated, some a bit dilapidated and a good few totally derelict. This first one was a bit overgrown, but still functioning as some institution or other and then we moved on to the Aviation Museum. Unfortunately, that is now closed, so we could only see it from the outside. The exhibits are soon to be moved somewhere else, obviously the prime site is needed for some corrupt official to make a lot of money on by selling it to the person or persons who offer the biggest bribe.
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| Oxbow lake |
After this there was another small hump in the middle of nowhere, so a lot of driving on sandy lanes was yet again called for. This was followed by a beautifully restored old windmill, where, curiously, the cache itself was on the other side of the main road behind an old and very neglected church. We saw some cute ducks on the oxbow lake behind the church, so that was a plus.
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| The little choo choo train |
This part of the country abounds in oxbow lakes, as the main river had its course straightened some time ago, leaving many old kinks, some of which have become fishing lakes or used for recreation of some sort or other. Our next cache was in a lovely park, yet again right next to an oxbow lake, followed by the second oldest inn in the country, which is now a museum. Both were lovely and finding the cache no bother.
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| Kolbász museum |
By the time we got this far, we realised that time was getting on, we have already eaten our sandwiches en route and were getting tired and hungry again, plus I had to arrive in good time at our hotel, so that I could have a rest, a shower, change and be ready for 6.30pm, when my friend Gyuri and his wife Eva were picking me up to go to the theatre with them, which started at 7pm. So we finished caching reasonably early and motored fast to our destination, which was a rather nice hotel in the middle of a pine forest.
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| The large grain silo, called "elevator house" |
I think I failed to mention so far the theatre, and that is strange, as the entire geocaching weekend was built round this premiere. Rober Cogo-Fawcett, an old friend of ours, has taken on directing Maurice Hennequin and Pierre Veber's 1912 French farce,
La présidente in the lovely old theatre in Békéscsaba. I wanted to see it anyway and as this town and the county it's in remained the only part of the country I have never geocached before, I thought I might combine two of my passions and have a friend along for the ride. Marianne agreed, and that is how these three days were born, starting with the 15th September, the night of the premiere of the play.
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| The Jókai Theatre in Békéscsaba |
Well, I think I had a fantastic evening, even though Marianne declined to attend, giving the reason of being tired and not particularly bothered about French farces. As far as I was concerned, I am not particularly fond of the genre myself, but to show interest in a friend's efforts, when it is quite a long time since he directed anything and not at all in this country as far as I know, was probably what swayed me. And it proved to be a very good decision. I have never screamed with laughter, or possibly only once before, in a theatre, like I did last Friday. It was frothy, silly and very, very funny; well put together, well acted and directed. Even the costumes caused hilarity quite often, I really had a good time. So did Gyuri and Eva, so we rounded off our first day splendidly indeed.
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| The two principals of the play |
The following morning Gyuri arrived at 8.30am to take us out to all our caches on that day, which was extremely kind of him. I was spared the driving and his local knowledge had helped in the search for some of them. I finally ended up with the day's count of 16, which on top of the 12 the day before, started looking like a healthy total for the weekend. We started still within the boundaries of the town, at a cute little restored old choo choo train, followed by the kolbász (spicy sausage, a local speciality) museum, both caches hidden by our host.
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| Some of the young horses |
After that we started on the list we prepared, all of which were outside the town in the countryside. The reason mostly being the fact that Marianne has cached there before and found all the other ones in the town already and while I haven't yet, but I could be back any time in the future, even by train, if necessary.
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| One of the rare beautifully restored little chateaux |
I am not going to go into blow by blow details of all of them, just give you the highlights here. First of all, the main theme seemed to be dereliction. Many of the caches in this area are hidden by a fellow geocacher, who is rather enamoured of ruins and/or dilapidated buildings. He gives the reason for this, as a memento to the glories of old and to make people have a look at them before they fall down. This is fair enough, although in one case the inn commemorated by that cache has fallen down so long ago that we couldn't even find a single pile of bricks, never mind a wall or a ruin.
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| Marianne, Eva and Gyuri round the table |
It is an agricultural area and also the centre of horse breeding. So we visited old, dilapidated grain silos, oat silos, manor houses, barns, chateaux, churches, mills etc., etc. Some were quite pretty still, others even better after renovation, but the vast majority were just depressing and seriously overgrown. We even found one cache by a capped off oil well, while the area it commemorated was a few hundred yards away, fenced off and unreachable.
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| Gyuri relaxing after his long drive by his pottery fireplace |
However, there were highlights too. Some of the enormous, fantastic, old trees were amazing and real treats to see. The biggest ones were plane trees with strange bumps on them, which were very photogenic. We also visited the town that was the home for decades of the breeding stables for the cavalry in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The buildings are neglected, but a renovation program is currently going, and, of course, the horses are still there and were looking magnificent in most of the stables we visited.
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| Pretty berries en route |
I take it you are getting the gist that as far as sights are concerned they were mixed, but I still think it was worth going, as the area itself was totally unknown to me, and now I can say that I have a feel for its way of life, even though it was not always to my liking. Also, I was in really lovely company: I haven't cached too many times with Marianne before, and I discovered that her and I are very alike. She was extremely useful navigating for me, so I didn't have to think of everything while driving, like I always had to with previous caching partners. Gyuri also proved to be an absolute darling and as for his lady wife, Eva, she is a treasure, but more about later.
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| A definitely derelict, ready to collapse, chateau |
So, all in all after the second lot of caches (now numbering 28 in total), we arrived, sweaty, dirty and rather exhausted, but extremely happy to Gyuri and Eva's house for dinner. We freshened up a bit, before we were summoned to the dinner table. Eva is a gourmet chef, as one of her hobbies is cooking. She is otherwise a teacher, which having been one myself I can happily relate to. She made an absolutely delicious pheasant soup for all of us, and then the meat eaters got kolbász (what else in Békéscsaba?) and I got African catfish with dill, which was heavenly. We had strudel for afters, and all of it was washed down by copious amounts of pálinka, champagne and soft drinks.
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| Amazingly, the tower is still in good condition |
We didn't get into bed until quite late and slept like a log most of the night. The bits we didn't sleep through were due to a very noisy wedding party all round us, but finally around 5am they all shut up, so I slept another 2 hours after that, which is a miracle, as I can never normally go back to sleep once I'm woken up in the morning.
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| Yet another oxbow lake |
The following morning, we managed to leave by 8am and slowly but surely pootled back home picking up caches as we went. Our third day gave us more of the same on the whole: derelict, currently under renovation, disappeared and/or neglected churches, chapels, chateaux dominated again, but there were highlights as well again.
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| Centre of country marker |
Ethnic Slovakians have settled this far from their homeland in the 19th century as agricultural workers (the migrants of that era), and their cultural and religious traditions are still with us. We saw a couple of Lutheran churches which date to that time. We also saw a cute little tower commemorating the geographical centre of Greater Hungary, as it was before Trianon in 1920, which while I can't normally stand all this irredentist nonsense that currently prevails in Hungary, was I suppose a historical monument of its own time.
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| The Andrássy chateau from the park |
We saw some more oxbow lakes again and again and again, but most of them were very pretty with fishermen and wildlife around. The final cache was actually fortunate that it gave us the chance to go out on a high. The aristocratic Andrássy family had a summer palace about 50km from the city and it is now an American Bible School, which while not over-endowed with money, tries to look after both the park and the building itself. We had a lovely chat with the gatekeeper, who is also the head gardener and found out a lot about the chateau and the park.
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| The conservatory from the park |
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| The little fountain in the lake |
The final total of caches was 37 for me and 35 for Marianne. I was home by 6pm, Marianne had another hour or so to get home from where I dropped her, but both of us felt very pleased with our three days away and hopefully she will come again with me to do this sort of thing in another part of the country.
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| The restored water tower |
On Monday Roy had a doctor's appointment and he needs now to see a specialist next week. We did a few outstanding things in town on the Monday as well, including parking up the car in a long term car park we have been eyeing up for ages and which has a reasonable daily rate of £2.50. I suppose the time for free car parks has passed and now the choice is between paying for it (hopefully not too much) or not bring the car into town. We often do that, but there are times when we have no choice other than driving in. Hopefully, this place will be around for a while, as it is an easy bus ride from home and reasonably convenient.
Next post due next week, hopefully!